Koulenje from Gesaria


Koulenje.jpg

This is an Armenian quickbread which originated in the region of Gesaria in Armenia. Koulenje is not well known among Armenians in the U.S.--most Armenians are more familiar with choereg, which is a similar bread but made with yeast instead of baking powder. The seeds on the koulenje are called sev dzandig (or sev goundig), which translates as “little black seeds.” My grandmother measured ingredients by eye and feel; this version approximates her amounts.

INGREDIENTS: All ingredients should be at room temperature.

6½ cups flour, or a little more
6 large eggs
6-7 heaping teaspoon baking powder
1 cup melted butter
1 tablespoon salt
1 to 1- 1/3 cups milk
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon ground mahleb
1 tablespoon sev dzandig (black seeds)

GLAZE:
1 egg
About 1 additional tablespoon sev dzandig (black seeds)

DIRECTIONS:
Sift flour, baking powder, salt, and sugar together. In a separate bowl, beat 6 eggs, then blend in the butter and milk.

Sprinkle one tablespoon of sev dzandig (black seeds) and all the mahleb on top of the dry ingredients. Make a hole in the center of the dry ingredients and pour the wet ingredients in all at once, mixing with a few strokes until the dough can be turned out onto a floured board. Add more flour if necessary; it shouldn't be too sticky.

Knead the mixture gently, just a few times, and then roll it out until it is ½" thick. Cut it into diamond shapes, circles, or long strips which can be rolled and braided into loaves. Prick each piece several times with a fork.

Beat the seventh egg with additional sev dzandig (black seeds) added. Brush each piece of koulenje with this glaze and place on cookie sheet covered with baking parchment.

Bake at 400° for 12-15 minutes until slightly golden. Cool on a rack. These are best eaten warm. You can reheat them by wrapping in foil. 

Recipe Credit: Janice Okoomian (from her grandmother Goldie Nakashian)

To read more about the important role that choreg has played in Armenian cuisine, tradition, and identity, please visit: https://www.diningindiaspora.com/food/2018/3/30/choreg-for-armenian-americans-identity-is-braided-into-this-bread